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Introduction to Berlin Guide

Berlin repairs its buildings without covering the evidence, then hands the result to art.

Introduction to Berlin Guide
Photography

David Chipperfield and Julian Harrap restored the Neues Museum by keeping the spirit of the ruin, which meant the gaps the war left were neither filled in nor disguised. New work meets old work at a seam anyone can see. The same decision keeps turning up across this city, in buildings with nothing museum-like about them.

Cultural life in Berlin has a habit of moving into premises that stopped working. KINDL is a brewery in Neukölln. König Galerie is a brutalist church. The Sammlung Boros collection occupies an air-raid bunker that was also an exotic fruit warehouse and later a techno club, John Pawson put the Feuerle Collection inside a former telecommunications bunker, and AFF renovated the listed locomotive shed at Wriezener Bahnhof. Studio Mark Randel installed Japanese charcoal grilling in a war-scarred 1911 landmark at Stoke, where the smoke joins soot that was already there.

Reitermann and Sassenroth completed the Chapel of Reconciliation in 2000, on ground where the Wall's death strip ran, a rammed-earth oval inside a translucent facade. Nothing about it suggests the site was always a garden. Building there meant deciding what a church owes to what happened on its own footprint, and the answer was earth, light and no monument. Who decides which damage is worth keeping, and which is only an old wall standing in the way of a floor plan?

Not everything here is a second use. Brandlhuber, Emde and Burlon with Muck Petzet built Lobe Block in Gesundbrunnen from nothing, a terraced studio house that stacks creative work, a restaurant, a yoga studio and urban gardening. No injury preceded it. By then the manner had detached from the condition that produced it, which is what happens to any good local habit given long enough.

Nothing is listed here that a reader cannot walk up to, and the map links, Google and Apple both, sit on every entry. The projects linked in this introduction need no membership to open, including the Balenciaga store, which complicates the argument: its monolithic concrete slabs and distressed surfaces were distressed on purpose, in a city where the distress is usually real.

That is where we get stuck. A wall the war opened and a wall opened by a fit-out contractor are starting to look alike, and only one of them is evidence. Does a city this practised at displaying its injuries still know the difference between a wound and a finish? The repairs will run out eventually. What Berlin does when there is nothing left to leave visible is not something the buildings answer.

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Berlin Guide
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Architecture in Berlin — industrial conversions, Brutalist landmarks, minimalist apartments, and cultural institutions built in the spaces the 20th century left behind. A city where every building carries history and every renovation is an act of interpretation.
Population: 
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