Teshima Art Museum by Ryue Nishizawa

Completed in 2011, this enigmatic structure is an evocative blend of art and architecture, housing an equally enigmatic installation by artist Rei Naito. Photographed by Iwan Baan, the museum presents itself as a simple concrete bubble, a form that belies its sophisticated design and construction.

Visiting the museum is a pilgrimage in itself. Teshima Island, home to just over a thousand residents spread across five small towns, is a remote destination accessible only after a series of travels by road, rail, and ferry. Upon arrival, the adventure continues with either a slow local bus or a motorized bicycle to navigate the island’s hills.

Despite its seclusion, the Teshima Art Museum attracted 11,000 visitors within the first two weeks of opening, drawn by the promise of ‘Almost nothing’ – a concept resonant with the philosophy of Mies van der Rohe. While Mies van der Rohe championed translucent glass and slender steel to create airy emptiness, Nishizawa and structural engineer Mutsuro Sasaki opted for concrete, challenging its conventional associations with solidity and weight.

The museum’s design journey began in 2004, when Nishizawa was invited to propose a structure for a site on nearby Naoshima Island, already home to several Tadao Ando-designed art museums. Nishizawa’s initial proposal was an autonomous, object-like form resembling a water droplet, which posed significant construction challenges. Engineers fine-tuned the form through numerous iterations, and contractors set out 3,500 precise points to achieve the non-orthogonal profile.

The structure’s seamlessness is a testament to innovative construction techniques. The concrete shell, a 250mm thick slab, was poured continuously over 22 hours onto a mortar-finished earth formwork, eliminating any visible edges. This continuous pour created a smooth transition between floor and wall, enhancing the space’s fluid, organic feel.

Inside, the museum’s vast, uninterrupted 1,958m² space houses Naito’s subtle installation. Beads of water emerge from pinholes in the floor, skimming across the surface in a mesmerizing dance. The water droplets merge, race, and disappear, creating a dynamic, ever-changing landscape that captivates visitors.

Two large oval openings in the roof, the only sources of light in the otherwise enclosed space, introduce natural elements like wind and rain into the museum. These openings invite visitors to gather and interact with the space, creating a communal experience under the changing skies.

Nishizawa’s minimalistic approach, far from being austere, results in an engaging and intimate environment. The Teshima Art Museum’s understated simplicity and human scale create a uniquely immersive experience, making it one of Japan’s most significant contemporary architectural achievements. The journey to this remote museum is indeed a rewarding endeavor, offering a profound connection between architecture, art, and nature.